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Farm-at-a-Glance

The Martens' Farm
Location: about 60 miles southeast
of Rochester, NY, on the western shore of Seneca
Lake
Important people: Klaas and Mary-Howell
Martens, Peter, Elizabeth, and
Daniel. Plus Robert Hall (employee/asst farm manager)
Years farming: We've farmed this
farm together since 1991. Klaas has farmed all
his life.
Total acreage: 1500
Tillable acres: 1300
Soil type: Honeoye Lima silt
loam
Crops: corn, soybeans, spelt,
wheat, barley, oats, triticale, red kidney beans,
sweet corn, snap beans, cabbage, edamame soybeans
Livestock: sheep, pigs, chickens
for our own use
Regenerative farm practices:
diverse long term crop rotations that incorporate
legumes and small grains, under seeding all small
grains with red clover, actively increasing soil
organic matter
Marketing: corn & small grains
are sold to Lakeview Organic Grain LLC, our organic
feed business. Soybeans, red kidney beans, and
spelt sold to brokers and processors. Some spelt
is sold as kosher organic spelt. Sweet corn, snap
beans and edamame are sold to processors who freeze
them under brand name labels. Cabbage is made
into sauerkraut and packed under the Cascadian
Farms label. Some of the oats, wheat and barley
are being grown from Foundation Seed to produce
Certified Organic Certified Seed.
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Now the
Midwest towns empty out, the former farmers and their children
leave because they no longer can find jobs in town, pay
their taxes, support their schools, buy groceries at the
local stores, eat at the local restaurants, attend the churches,
and serve on county government. No longer are there enough
volunteers for the local fire and ambulance squads, the
PTA, the Zoning Board, the Meals on Wheels. No longer do
the children learn to be strong responsible leaders through
FFA and 4H. Store fronts sit empty downtown, tax money to
repair and build roads dries up.
For organic
agriculture to become ‘the norm’ rather than
a ‘niche market’, it must consistently provide
enough food for all those bodies, sustainably, under a wide
range of agricultural conditions, in a long-term, environmentally
friendly manner and without the huge price premiums we’ve
come to expect.
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December
16, 2003:
From the Dakotas to the Texas
Panhandle, the rural Great Plains has been losing people
for 70 years, a slow demographic collapse. Without even
the level of farmers and merchants that used to give these
areas their pulse, many counties are also losing their very
reason to exist, falling behind the rest of the nation in
nearly every category as they desperately try to reinvent
themselves.
"Will this be the last generation
to inhabit the rural Great Plains?" asked Jon Bailey
of the Center for Rural Affairs, a nonprofit research group
in Walthill, Neb. Few people in Nebraska, which has 7 of
the nation's 12 poorest counties, scoff at the question.
Government attention has only
consolidated the trends, people in the small towns of the
plains say, by subsidizing mega-farms that rarely create
local jobs or contribute to merchants in the region. Arguments
about the miracle of the American breadbasket - harnessing
market efficiency andtechnology to produce cheap food in
stunning abundance - may resound globally, but they ring
hollow locally. The rueful view here is that subsidies,
however sensible in the macroeconomic sense, are gutting
the plains ever more.
--“Amid Dying
Towns of Rural
Plains, One Makes a Stand”
Timothy Egan, New York Times
12/1/03
In February of 1999, we joined more than 1,000 other farmers
in the huge auditorium at the Pennsylvania Association for
Sustainable Agriculture (PASA) conference to hear an architect
give the keynote talk. An architect?! What could an architect
teach a bunch of sustainable farmers? As it turned out, what
we learned that day from Dr. William McDonough of the University
of Virginia has profoundly changed the way we view the world.
The gist of his message was this: The initial design of products
or systems will largely define the outcomes, both intentional
and unintentional. If we want an agricultural system to have
certain desired outcomes, this must be included in the original
design. Rather than installing physical filters at the end
of a system to “catch” the toxic effluent and
mitigate the damage caused, we must install mental filters
in the initial design to reduce waste, stop the toxins from
being formed, and to enhance, rather than destroy, the natural
world.
This past September, I was privileged to participate in a
conference at which Fred Kirschenmann spoke on the future
of American agriculture (click
here to see our piece on his talk at the Biodynamic Farming
Conference in November). All of his talk was profound, but
the most impressive “take away message for me was a
graph of the past 50 years of agriculture. One soaring line
representing “Agricultural Productivity” showed
that Western-style agriculture has done truly remarkable things
to increase farm output. However, an equally soaring line
represented “Farm Input Costs” and at the bottom
of the graph, sinking steadily toward the axis, was the depressing
line representing “Farm Profit”.
With a scenario like this, it is hardly a surprise that the
towns in the Midwest, as described in the above New York Times
quote, are dying a slow and painful death. But what we
need to ask now is, was this part of the original design?
Is it part of the current design for American agriculture?
One of our favorite adversaries to organic agriculture, Dennis
Avery, of the infamous Hudson Institute, has recently released
a “new” certification program called the “Earth
Friendly/Farm Friendly” program. (He works under the
Center for Global Food Issues to promote this concept. See
www.cgfi.org)
Widely publicized to influential non-farmers, this program
seeks to reward farms that practice “highly productive
agricultural and environmental principles in the management
and care of their dairy herds and specifically designed to
increase feed efficiency and reduce nutrient excretions.”
What are these principles, according to Avery and the CGFI?
Generally, they are the ones described by Fred Kirchenmann’s
graph: heavy use of pesticides, antibiotics, hormones, expensive
equipment, debt, fossil fuels, government subsidies, and as
few employees as possible. Cows are milked three times a day,
pushed to their productive limits with hormones and super-charged
feed for the sole purpose of milk output. Their fragile health
under such stress is sustained by continual antibiotics. Their
massive output of manure could be produced thousands of miles
from where the crops are grown for their feed. Instead, the
soil in which these crops are grown is fertilized heavily
with synthetic fertilizers and need transgenic intervention,
herbicides, insecticides and fungicides to survive in such
an environment. In the 1940’s, the famous soil scientist
from Missouri, Dr. William Albrecht, testified that the new
use of synthetic fertilizers would create a need for new herbicides
and other pest killers as the natural balance was invariably
disrupted. Was this indeed part of the original design?
Is it now?
. . . is this part of the original
design?
Now the Midwest towns empty out, the former farmers and their
children leave because they no longer can find jobs in town,
pay their taxes, support their schools, buy groceries at the
local stores, eat at the local restaurants, attend the churches,
and serve on county government. No longer are there enough
volunteers for the local fire and ambulance squads, the PTA,
the Zoning Board, the Meals on Wheels. No longer do the children
learn to be strong responsible leaders through FFA and 4H.
Store fronts sit empty downtown, tax money to repair and build
roads dries up.
Downstream, aquatic life disappears in and at the mouths
of rivers. Frogs and other animals are unable to reproduce,
as many pesticides and industrial chemicals act as hormone
disrupters, turning males into something in between. Topsoil
runs into the streams or blows away, because there is no longer
a diverse active population of microbes holding things in
place, producing gooey glomelin, feeding and cooperating on
and with each other. It takes over 500 years to form one inch
of stable topsoil and it can be lost in minutes.
Cancer, asthma, antibiotic resistance, divorce, demoralization,
loss of biodiversity, bankrupt counties, contaminated soil,
hypoxic zones, empty houses -- the list goes on. You know
many of the details already. These are the externalized costs
of the current Western agricultural system, the costs that
proponents of the system do not acknowledge and certainly
don’t intend to pay for. But we must ask ourselves,
are these outcomes part of the intended design for this system?
Farms can have both positive and negative effects on the
community. These effects are economic, social, and aesthetic,
for invariably farms will impact the environment, health and
social structure of the surrounding community. Agriculture
can benefit neighboring industries, such as tourism, or it
can be a detriment. Agriculture can enhance water and soil
quality, or it can create pollution and health problems that
the community will pay dearly for. The community will either
reap external benefits from the agricultural system, or it
will reap external costs.
This doesn’t just happen -- it is a conscious and unconscious
choice. In his book, ‘Cradle
to Cradle’ , McDonough says that “Rather than
being an aesthetic and cultural delight, modern agriculture
becomes a terror and a fright to local residents who want
to live and raise their families in a healthy setting. While
the economic payoff immediately rises, the overall quality
of every other aspect of this system is actually in decline.”
I recently heard a strong supporter of “Big Dairy”
in New York comment that “we have become very good at
maximizing what goes in the front end of the cow -- all the
feed, medications, and growth stimulants for maximum milk
production. But we really don’t know what to do with
what comes out the back end.” This massive waste of
a potentially valuable resource is not much different from
what William McDonough describes in ‘Cradle
to Cradle’ when he says that up to 90% of the products
used to make durable goods in the United States becomes waste
immediately. These waste products, largely in the packaging,
could be valuable resources but instead they are immediately
burned or buried, becoming a disposal headache and removed
from further use. What a waste!
There is no reason that organic farming can’t meet
all the simplistic criteria of the “Earth Friendly/Farmer
Friendly” program, as quoted above, and meet them far
better than the practices that this program seeks to sanctify.
Organic farming can be highly productive, it is definitely
more environmentally and farmer friendly, and certainly depositing
manure on pasture is a much better way to reduce the impact
of “nutrient excretions.”
“There will not be an absolute
end of agriculture in America or New York. The survivors
will be high value, place-branded and niche markets. Land
that has a good natural resource base and is not easily
put to higher value may remain in agriculture.
We are heading toward a bimodal
structure with a few very large producers and a larger number
of small local niche marketers. Medium-sized farms will
become fewer and will be a transitional group of small farms
becoming large.”
“The Future
of American Agriculture
and the Land Grant University,”
Cornell University, 4/2003
How can organic become the new model for
feeding the world?
However, the Hudson Institute does make a point that the
organic community must not ignore. The world has a heck of
a lot of people needing to be fed, with more coming every
year. For organic agriculture to become ‘the norm’
rather than a ‘niche market’, it must consistently
provide enough food for all those bodies, sustainably, under
a wide range of agricultural conditions, in a long-term, environmentally
friendly manner and without the huge price premiums we’ve
come to expect.
We all know the price of food has precious little to do with
what farmers are paid, but if sufficient quantity and moderate
price can’t be achieved with our current organic practices,
what must we learn and adopt to make it happen?
Lowering the cost of organics is not impossible, nor is it
necessarily undesirable. Certainly farmers and their employees
must be paid fairly for their work (now that’s a radical
idea!), but we also need to be able to produce the products
that the Average Person will be willing to buy. Americans
are notorious for their passion for a bargain, intrinsically
believing that if it is cheaper, than it must be better. We
idealists in the organic community are not going to substantively
change that pervasive mindset. How do we balance the need
for a sustainable farm income, a sustainable healthy environment,
and the inherent rush for the bottom (price)?
As Christmas comes, few will be able to resist the lure of
Wal-Mart simplicity -- there’s something there for everyone.
It may not be durable, environmentally or socially friendly,
but hey, it gets the job done with as little effort as possible.
Especially those of us with children will be pushed to buy
the latest designer T-shirt, the hot new iPod (it is mighty
cute!), or the most heavily advertised bit of garish molded
plastic. To make our loved ones happy and to simplify our
busy lives, we will become active participants, supporting
what McDonough calls “intergenerational remote tyranny”
of passing the intolerable external costs of the bad design
of the current agricultural and industrial system on to future
generations here and to far distant Third World populations
to cope with. That is the choice we’re making.
In closing, I want to pay tribute to my cousin, Steve, who
died on November 29 at the age of 49. As a geologist, he spent
his adult life working with the fertilizer and toxic-waste
cleanup industries, trying to find reasonable solutions to
problems created by appallingly flawed design. In early November,
he was diagnosed with a highly invasive, fast-moving cancer
that rapidly spread though his body. He leaves his wife, two
school-age children, parents, a sister, friends, and others,
all of whom loved him and counted on him.
Klaas’ family lived much the same story 25 years ago
when his father died of cancer, leaving behind a half-grown
family. He was a farmer exposed to the first generation of
ag chemicals. How many other such stories do we have to hear
before we start believing them?
There are some who say that we can “save the earth
with pesticides and plastic”. Please keep in your prayers
one family in California this Christmas who knows very well
that the cost is simply too high.
“Sustainable development
is a process of change in which the direction of investment,
the orientation of technology, the allocation of resources,
and the development and functioning of institutions meet
present needs and aspirations without endangering the capacity
of natural systems to absorb the effects of human activities,
and without compromising the ability of future generations
to meet their own needs and aspirations.”
“Sustainable
Development: Definition
and Implementation Strategies”
Roy F. Weston, 1993
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